GAZA CITY, Gaza Strip-With the sun setting through mauve clouds over the Mediterranean, dozens stream onto the beaches at night to swim, drink Arabic coffee and smoke sweet tobacco in water pipes at the newest beach clubs. A new stretch of neon and nightlife has sprung up in this sandy, forlorn coastal strip, still stalked by misery as Palestinian self-rule takes root in its second year. But after years of intifada violence and Israeli army curfews, a sea change of bright lights, modest leisure and even laughter has swept through the Gaza Strip. One restaurateur even tried to introduce belly dancers in this still strictly Muslim society, though his promotional show was ill-fated. Overly appreciative men screaming "Allah Akbar" (God is great) rushed the stage and pistol firing bouncers had to spirit the dancers to safety, witnesses said.